Showing posts with label Pattern Review. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Pattern Review. Show all posts

Saturday, June 14, 2014

Pattern Review :: Vogue 8982


Vogue 8982
by Marcy Tilton



Before launching into what I'm pretty sure
is my first ever pattern review 
I need to let you know this wasn't a personal project, 
one of my students, Rosie, 
brought the pattern to class 
and because there were a couple of dramas on our journey
which didn't seem to be addressed in anyone else's review
I felt compelled to share our experience 
in the hope it might help some other unsuspecting creative soul achieve a joyous outcome...

Rosie is an enthusiastic sewer whose desire to create original & interesting garments isn't always equal to her technical & pattern reading skills 
 which after all, is why I'm here...

Pattern Description:
Loose-fitting, unlined jacket or vest has front exending into back collar, front darts, back extending to lower side front, shaped hemline and no side seams,  wrong side may show B.sleeves with slit, narrow hem and topstitching by hand. D.mock front band, stitched hems, back cut on crosswise grain.
Sizing & Style: Size 14 and version 'D'
Fabric: polyester satin damask
Were the instructions easy to follow:
for the most part the construction was straight forward especially if you took notice of the notches & markings, however
•   there was no mention of finishing the edges - we opted to overlock all the raw edges.
•   the instructions for stitching the back collar & facing in place were very wordy & diagrams lacked clarity so we effectively & efficently Ditch Stitched the collar in place.
•   the image below is of the front facing and is an example of  experience being important - you are instructed to Cut here for D, with the line stopping abruptly and no explanation of what to do next, we determined that tapering & reshaping the facing back into the existing cutting line was the best option. 


Pattern Alterations or Design Changes:
  • we decided against cutting the centre back on the crosswise grain [bias] - there didn't seem much point as Rosies chosen fabric had alot of body & any effect would have been lost in translation.
  • the sleeves were extremely long, requiring 5cm be removed from the length.

Would you Sew Again:
•   Yes - Rosie had her second one cut ready to go.
Conclusion:
The journey was a bit bumpy and we both concluded early on that Rosie would never have completed the Jacket without assistance, it was likewise unanimous that the outcome was fantastic and worth every effort.


Vogue patterns can be challenging to decipher at the best of times
and unfortunately not a recommended choice for a novice or nervous sewer 
especially if the plan is to do more sewing in the future
in my experience 
it takes experience 
to see a Vogue pattern through to completion
and I fear alot of sewing machines have ended up in storage
due unfortunate pattern choices

which is why we REinvent. x 

Saturday, November 23, 2013

Sew-What-You-Like Workshop - Day Two & Pattern REviews

Everyone decided to create from patterns during this 2day Workshop

so I feel marginally qualified & a little obliged 
to do my very first pattern reviews 


Jeanette made a frock



from 100% cotton fabric 
using this pattern 


Simplicity 1610
not her first and possibly not her most challenging project at the Studio
Jeanette opted for the sleeveless scoop-neck version 
the process from go to woe was fairly straight forward 
as long as the instructions were adhered to

we did contemplate not self lining the bodice
as the pattern asked
using our old faithful Bias Binding to finish raw edges
until it was realised the squared off armholes wouldn't allow for this


it turned out to be a firm fitting 1950's styled frock
which Jeanette enjoyed the making and wearing of so much 
she's coming back for some floral fabric to make another.
*
*
Rosie bought this gorgeous Japanese cotton voile from me a while back 
and arrived with the perfect for summer top pattern to tackle


opting also for the high-neck version
which we ended up lowering to suit Rosies shape better
the raw edges allowed for Bias Binding finishes in the same fabric 
and on completion Rosie chose to jazz it up a little 
with some 'ribboned' Bias sewn as a big droopy bow in the centre

Butterick B5644
Finished, the garment is loose fitting, roomy and airy
a straight forward project for an experienced sewer as Rosie 
and it would also make a perfect first time project for a novice.
*
*
JoAnne had high hopes for her bag full of potential REinventions 
and it was decided the piece she most wanted to play with
was the fabric in an unwearable frock


we decided a Vogue pattern of mine
would fit the bill perfectly
if we lost the frill at the bottom
turned the neck gathers into pleats/tucks
and added extra width at the sides

Vogue V8229


there wasn't much of the orginal frock left by the time we'd finished
we even REused the Invisible Zip


Quite a fitted garment when finished
[we added extra panels into the sides] 
not a difficult pattern to follow & construct
especially if just laying up fabric

REinventing using a pattern is extremely rewarding 
and a tad time consuming.
*
*
When I saw this fabric I immediately thought Tea Frock
and when Kate saw it in the Studio Shop 
she thought the same thing


having already made her first one 
a couple of weeks before in a more difficult fabric
this one almost sewed itself


the most time consuming part was leveling the hem-line
due entirely to the bias nature of the cut
and the weight in the skirt
there's no point in doing a review for this pattern
because the pattern is no longer available
and if I'm going to do a
Tea Frock Workshop
I'd best find one similar soon!

With a little time up her sleeve 
Kate made a start on her next 
as with others Kate's made in the past 
this one will not have the front wrap panel
however this time Kate's challenged herself by lining it


 and if Stella keeps bringing us her delicious chocolate Brownies
and we eat them
I might have to do a workshop 
on how to best let out your seams!